Transylvania, often associated with spooky castles and vampire lore, offers a captivating adventure beyond its haunted reputation. This journey takes us to the heart of Romania's mountains, where the Gurghiu range, part of the Eastern Carpathians, presents a wild and untamed landscape. The region, known as Harghita County, is a hidden gem that remains largely unexplored by international travelers, with an overwhelming 85% of visitors coming from Romania itself.
The landscape is a tapestry of dense forests, towering peaks, and serene lakes. The air is crisp, and the solitude is refreshing, offering a stark contrast to the bustling tourist hotspots like the Dolomites or the French and Swiss Alps. This region, once part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, boasts a rich cultural heritage with a predominantly Hungarian-descended population, speaking a distinct Hungarian dialect known as Székelys. The local cuisine reflects this influence, with dishes like goulash and kürtőskalács (chimney cakes) and the intricately carved székelykapu (wooden gates) adorning homes.
Our adventure begins in Brașov, where we embark on a road trip, steering clear of the vampire-themed Bran Castle. We find ourselves in Sâncrăieni, nestled in Organicle Lodge, a tranquil haven with a cozy spruce bedroom, a spacious lounge, and a kitchen. The lodge is surrounded by a fragrant forest, with views of the valley and the misty mountains in the distance. The peaceful atmosphere is enhanced by the presence of the owners' cats and French bulldog, providing entertainment for our four-year-old son.
One of the highlights of our trip is Lacul Sfânta Ana, a volcanic lake surrounded by the Mohoş Peat Bog, which transports us back to the Ice Age with its unique flora and fauna. We take a boat ride on the sparkling lake, surrounded by shades of forest green. The Medveles Székelyföld observatory offers a unique experience, where we witness bears feasting on corn, providing an up-close encounter with these majestic creatures. The region is known for its high bear population density, and we are fortunate to spot a mother and cub ambling through the forest.
As we venture further north, we encounter Vila Adela, a charming orange house near Lacu Roșu, adorned with red geraniums and featuring whimsical fairy houses, windmills, and animal statues in the garden. The bedroom offers a breathtaking view of the Suhardul Mic limestone massif. Our journey continues through the Bicaz Gorge, where we marvel at the massive rock walls and structures, dominated by Piatra Altarului, marked by a metal cross.
Toplița, at the far north of the county, is our next stop, where we stay at Casa Samir, a wildlife photography and nature tour hub run by Samir and his son David. The Gurghiu mountains, with their serene beauty, provide the perfect backdrop for a hiking adventure. Samir, a lifelong resident, shares stories of his ancestors and the region's natural wonders, serving homemade burduf (salty sheep's cheese) and lamb sausage, accompanied by a bottle of palinka, a warming plum brandy.
Our final stop is Turul Guesthouse, a row of wooden lodges with hot tubs and a trampoline. We explore Mini Transylvania Park, a collection of detailed models of Transylvanian castles, palaces, and churches, including Bran Castle. The neighboring Insect Park showcases large-scale, moving models of insects, offering a unique perspective on the natural world.
The pinnacle of our adventure is a hike up Harghita Mădăraș, the highest peak in the Harghita mountains. Despite the rain and thunder, the Székely flag, with its gold, white, and blue colors, stands proudly. We conclude our journey at Zetea lake, where we kayak, surrounded by the tranquility of nature, and witness the peaceful coexistence of bears and humans.
This trip, provided by Visit Harghita, offers an authentic and affordable adventure, allowing travelers to immerse themselves in the beauty and culture of Transylvania's mountains. The accommodations, ranging from Organicle Lodge to Turul Guesthouse, cater to various preferences, and the region's natural wonders, including bear-watching and kayaking, provide unforgettable experiences. Transylvania's mountains are a testament to the region's untamed beauty and the warmth of its people, offering a unique blend of adventure and cultural immersion.
